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Banshee Electrical and Lighting Upgrade Stage 1 - Electrical Upgrade - Page 1 |
Everybody knows that the stock lighting on the Yamaha Banshee is a weak point. This is a result of 2 factors. First, the stock stator can only put out enough power to run two 30 watt lights and the tail/brake light. Second, is that there's no battery on a Banshee so when you let off of the gas and the engine revs down your lights go dim. Additionally, the stock lights on the Banshee are nothing to brag about. The beam pattern is fairly decent but the brightness is not good since they are only 30 watts each and they are mounted somewhat low and do not turn with the handlebars. This project is going go to show you how to upgrade to an aftermarket stator, float the ground on the stator so that the lighting can be converted to DC power, add a battery to help power the lights and upgrade the stock 30 watt lights to Hella 500 driving lights and add Trail Tech handlebar mounted lights. Let's get started... |
Overview of the stator assembly as received. Step 1 of the electrical upgrade is a new 200 watt stator from Ricky Stator. This stator puts out 200 watts of lighting power, has a +/- 10 degree timing adjustment plate plus it comes with a new pick-up coil for $185. The wiring harness on it is just like the factory harness and is of very good quality. As it comes, the wiring is exactly the same as a stock stator... for now. Not a bad deal. |
Detail of the stator connectors - just like OEM. |
Timing marks on the included timing plate. |
Next thing you are going to need is a regulator/rectifier if you want to run DC power and a battery. The unit that Ricky Stator sells is made by Tympanium and is a very good product. Even if you don't want a battery and want to keep your Banshee lighting running on AC power then you still need to buy an upgraded voltage regulator as the stock one won't handle the higher power put out by the upgraded stator. |
This is the Banshee wiring diagram from a Clymer's manual. You don't NEED this (since I am posting the pic) but it is always a good idea to have the manual anyway.
Here is the modified wiring diagram showing the new lights, battery, new regulator, etc, etc... |
Since I am planning on making this a DC power system I have to "float the ground". Basically what this means is that in stock condition the AC lighting circuit uses ground (the frame) as 1/2 of the circuit and the AC output of the stator as the other 1/2 of the circuit. This will not work on a DC conversion because I need 2 "floating" AC inputs into my regulator/rectifier. I need to pull BOTH legs of the stator out the wiring harness to my regulator/rectifier. As it comes, 1 leg of AC comes out on the yellow wire and 1 leg is tied to the stator ground (pictured above). I need to disconnect the wire shown above from ground and extend it out the wiring harness. |
To loosen up the wiring harness disconnect the strap and chassis ground wire (not to be confused with the stator wire that is grounded in prior picture).
Strap and chassis ground removed so we can work on the wiring harness. |
Stator output now removed from ground. |
Here I have pulled in the green wire throught the harness. This wire will be used to extend the 2nd leg of the stator through the wiring harness. I am tinning the end of the wire with solder. DO NOT USE CRIMP CONNECTORS HERE. SOLDER ONLY!!! |
I am unsoldering the lug that was used to tie the 2nd leg of the stator to ground. |
This is what it should look like when it's done. |
