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Banshee Electrical and Lighting Upgrade Stage 1 - Electrical Upgrade - Page 2 |
Now that the wires are tinned, slide the heat shrink tubing over the green wire BEFORE soldering the 2 wires together. I used 2 pieces of heat shrink to be absolutely sure that the wires would be well insulated and not ground out - which would burn up your stator coils. |
I first put a smaller diameter piece of heat shrink on.
Then a larger piece to double insulate the connection. You can use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing but if it gets too hot it will start to melt and deform.
Heat shrinking complete. |
Run the new wire as shown then feed it through the opening in the stator plate with the rest of the wire bundle. |
Once the wire is through the first part of the harness the retaining strap and ground connection can be put back.
The wire dressed all the way through the harness and ready to be connectorized. You can do all of this either before or after soldering and heat shrinking the new wire to the stator output - it doesn't matter. |
I connectorized the stator harness and the regulator/rectifier. The blue connections are new (I later changed them to OEM style connections because the blue ones suck). When doing this it is IMPORTANT to note that the male and female connectors should be used depending on whether or not there is voltage present when disconnected. The stator OUTPUTS should always be FEMALE and the regulator INPUTS should be MALE. Outputs = Female, Inputs = Male as a general rule. This is done so that something can't short out if it comes disconnected. That concludes this portion of the project. Next part is getting a battery ready to be installed.... |
The battery I chose to use is a Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) 5 AmpHour (AH) battery. I bought this from a KTM dealer locally and it cost about $32. The purpose of the battery is just to keep the Banshee lights from going dim when the engine revs down and to provide "parking" lights so I don't get ran over when parked at the dunes at night. |
The first step is to pull off the foil seal over the top of the battery so that Electrolyte (acid) can be added. The openings are pointed so that when the electrolyte container is pressed on it pierces the seal and allows the pre-measured electrolyte to flow into the battery. |
Here yop can see the electrolyte ready to be inserted onto the battery. |
Electrolyte is flowing into the battery. |
As the electrolyte flows into the battery it is a good idea to rock/tap/jiggle the battery a little to allow the liquid to work it's way through the battery's plates. Let it sit for 10 minutes or so then removed the electrolyte container. |
After removal of the electrolyte container firmly press on the seal. |
Time to put it on the charger. Charge at a low rate for the first charge. Here, it is charging at 2.3 amps. While the battery is charging we can get back to the stator installation. |
