There is one and only one way to properly remove the flywheel. Use a flywheel puller made for the Banshee (and it fits several other quads too). First remove the nut holding the flywheel on. You may need an impact wrench or at least a breaker bar for this. Then screw the reverse threaded flywheel puller all the way on (make sure the center bolt in the puller is backed all the way out and not keeping the puller from threading all the way into the flywheel) and using 2 wrenches as shown turn the center bolt until the flywheel pops off.

Once the flywheel is removed the stator will be exposed. Remove the stator plate bolts as indicated by the red arrows, disconnect the other end of the wiring harness and pull the harness and stator assembly off.

Here the new stator is installed, the wiring harness is fed back in place and the timing is set to +4 degrees.

Here you can see a close-up of the timing advance (or retard if you need it) marks. The split in the top/bottom cases is where you index the timing mark. Here you can see that the timing is set for just a hair over +4 degrees. +4 is the generally accepted advance to use on most engines. More can lead to problems if you don't know what your doing. +4 = SAFE

Here is a detail of the woodruff key set in place. Once the key is set into its slot and sitting parallel to tthe crankshaft carefully slide the flywheel on and tighten the flywheel nut down to 60 ft/lbs. Use a flashlight to look in through the flywheel to be able to see to guide it onto the key. A pin wrench is the ideal tool to hold the flywheel but I have used a large strap wrench or impact wrench with success. Use an impact wrench at your own risk. Not enough torque and the key will sheer and your getting towed home.

Since this is a DC conversion we need a regulator/rectifier installed and wired in. This will convert the AC current coming from the stator to DC current as well as regulate the output to a max of 14.5 volts DC. In my installation I chose to install the regulator/rectifier on the left side just behind the fender using a mounting point that was left over after the stock pipes were removed. This gives the unit a solid mount, provides some heat dissipation through the frame and allows decent airflow over the unit. The lower bolt is a rubbercoated mounting strap used for electrical conduit that goes around the frame and is bolted to the unit. Should have got a pic of that I suppose. :)

Here are the electrical connections under the seat. Basically, the AC out from the stator (Yel/Grn wires) feed the AC input to the Reg/Rect (Yel/Yel wires). The DC+/DC- wires out of the Reg/Rect feed the DC to the rest of the system. DC- (negative) is tied to ground and Battery Neg terminal. DC+ (positive) is tied to the stock lighting circuit which used to be fed by the old stator directly and to the battery Pos terminal.

Now that we have stator and regulator/rectifier installed and wired in we need to install the battery.